Huge Tree Pastry: Taiwanese Breakfast-style Rice Rolls with the Best Freshly Made Soymilk Ever

I was beyond excited to try Huge Tree Pastry, a Taiwanese breakfast food joint in the venerable San Gabriel Valley, especially after the Taiwanese American friend I went with gave it her seal of authenticity and approval. The item I was most excited to try was the rice rolls, called fan tuan.

I wanted the black sweet rice roll because I love black rice and it looked like the most unusual and interesting. Message boards recommended adding an egg and pickles, so it was a no brainer to add them. They came tightly rolled using clear wrap and sliced into half per our request. It was a bit of a pain to eat because the rolls didn't hold very well but I liked the idea of using a thin layer of black rice to stuff it with shredded fried pork, a well-done fried egg and pickled cabbage. Verdict on the first bite: a bit dry and bland. I wished they had left the yolk uncooked so there would be some oozing going on that would make it less dry (a Taiwanese American friend later assured me his mother made them that way.). Or that the fried pork came in different levels of spiciness as with the pickles, so there is some kick. So I proceeded to add some chili sauce and paired it with the recommended drink of choice, freshly made soy milk.

This is when I had my revelation. The soy milk was fantastic. The only time I recall having soy milk with such strong tofu flavor was when I made cold soy milk noodles in the summer, which requires soaking and grinding soy beans with some water. That soy broth is the closest I've gotten to freshly made soy milk, which is pretty much the same thing. But this "sweet" soy milk (it didn't taste sweet at all) served hot was the bomb. Who knew one could get this excited about soy milk? All I can say is that I stopped by a market next door afterwards and bought myself some freshly made soy milk from a local manufacturer. Some of the milk was sold warm. I was so sold. This VK brand unsweetened soy milk was excellent too although not quite as good (while fresh, probably wasn't as fresh as the one served at restaurant).

Another big breakfast item in Taiwan is apparently you tiao, or very long fried donut. It's not seasoned so has to be consumed dunked in the milk for flavor. I didn't love the donut. I think I'm just not conditioned to have fried donuts as a savory meal.

The rest of the stuff didn't blow my mind but I also think they are an acquired taste. The sesame bread sandwich with beef slices and pickled cabbage was also a tad dry. Even when I dabbed the chili sauce, I wasn't feeling it. I found the quality of the beef slices to be particularly disturbing. The beef was flavorless and rather fatty. Thumbs down.

We also had the scallion pancake with egg, which was good but I found too dry again. Even dipped in the soy sauce that was on the table, it seemed overcooked so the pancake was hard and difficult to chew on.

We also had the pork soup dumplings (xiao long bao), which were decent but ultimately couldn't hold a candle to Din Tai Fung's version (I know there is controversy over whose xlb is best in LA -- let me know what your fave is).

Another excellent milk-related revelation (it's all about the milk in this post) was the sweet peanut milk that I tried. I first had it served cold and found it too sweet and thick, much like a smoothie or shake. So my friend recommended I mix it with the warm sweet soymilk. Oh man. What took me this long to discover this concoction? It was the perfect drink to hold me over between meals as a snack. I'm going to have to try making fresh peanut soy milk at home.

On my way out, I picked up some of the savory buns and pastries sold at the counter. I got the curried beef pastry, shredded radish pastry, a pork belly bun with pickled cabbage and greens, a leek and pork bun and mushroom and pork bun.

Unfortunately, the only one I liked was the pork belly and only the pork belly itself, which was soft and very well cooked. But the bun was too dense even though I steamed it at home. I know things aren't as good when reheated but I think I'm just not into Taiwanese savory pastries.

The curried one was so promising but alas, it didn't quite work for me either.

I'd like to return and have more of that amazing soy milk and try their noodle dishes.