KOREA ROUNDUP: FROM ACORN JELLY TO ETHEREAL TONKATSU

It's been over two years since I last wrote. A lot has happened but my passion to make, find and eat good food hasn't changed. I was inspired to highlight some of the best meals I had in my last trip and document the duds so you all don't have to make the same mistake (and because IG isn't enough room).

This acorn jelly, though. It's definitely not for everyone but Chunghwajung (청화정 안동국시) in the southeastern suburb of Suji (not the starlet, for Kpop fans) makes one of the best versions I've had. Called dotorimook moochim (도토리묵 무침), it's jelly made from acorn powder that's then seasoned with chopped kimchi, sesame oil and sprinkled with sesame seeds and shredded dried seaweed. The flavors and textures blend perfectly well together to make the best appetizer or side dish to any meal. 

Chunghwajung also does an excellent sooyook (수육), or steamed sliced beef. It's not the most photogenic dish but every bite of the meat was extra soft and tender -- the perfect accompaniment to a traditional Korean rice wine called makgolli (막걸리). Better yet, wrap the meat in one of the perilla leaves (kennip or 깻잎) marinated in soy sauce and green onions. Or should you like spicier flavors, wrap the meat in the Korean leek (boochoo or 부추) kimchi for an explosion of flavors in your mouth. 

What this restaurant is known for is its so-called knife noodles, or kalguksoo (칼국수). While good, kalguksoo isn't my favorite type of noodles and I really use the noodles as an excuse to have the perilla leaves and leek kimchi by wrapping each morsel of noodles with these greens. 

Comfort food at its best.

Now for hands-down the best meal I had on this trip: Seoji Chogatteul (서지초가뜰) in the coastal town of Kangneung (강릉). It's off the beaten path but well worth it. They first served us these fried beauties upon sitting down. They're dried chiles that they have fried to perfection. The crunch was satisfyingly loud like we were biting into chips. I had never had these before and am now obsessed.

The restaurant serves different levels of jungshik (정식), a classic Korean meal with the works. The namul (나물) included the usual suspects but the vegetables were steamed, stir fried and seasoned just right. They included shitake mushrooms, carrots, radish and two kinds of greens that don't really have a common translation (one being chui namul, 취나물).

The rice itself came with the popular green, gondeurae (곤드레) and we then mixed in the veggies from the previous image. The tofu blocks seasoned lightly with red pepper flakes in a broth were the second best thing from the meal. We could taste the deep soybean flavor that came from hand-making the tofu from scratch. We kept asking for refills.

The biggest revelation, however, was this trio of sauces. One was spicy and another was salty based on fermented soybean paste with a baby anchovy broth base. The one I keep dreaming about, though, is the green sauce made from a secret combination of greens with some garlic and likely crack. I couldn't get enough of this sauce in my rice that I had never tasted before. This trio of sauces is rather unusual in that restaurants don't normally offer different sauces to mix with the rice. It's usually red/spicy, soy sauce-based or based on the fermented soybean paste only and definitely had never seen or tasted anything like this green sauce. Must hack. 

Other side dishes were equally solid including the good ol' acorn jelly that you can see was served differently from the previous one that came seasoned. This is served with a sauce on the side based on soy sauce, red pepper flakes and green onions to apply to taste.

One of my biggest beefs about Los Angeles is that despite having a sizable Japanese American community and expat Japanese business community in South Bay, its tonkatsu (fried pork cutlets) game blows. I mean, seriously, get with the program, LA. I'll be happy with a chain straight from Japan like Hibarin because it's simply excellent and we should have one in LA. It's a more upscale version of the chain, Saboten, that I've written about here and owned by the same company. Hibarin only has one location in Seoul (Hyundai Department Store at the Express Bus Terminal) for now but it's a matter of time until they expand Starbucks-style. Hibarin takes its tonkatsu seriously. It offers three kinds of high quality pork including the famous black pig from Jeju Island, green tea-fed pigs from Boseong area known for its green tea fields and ginseng-fed pigs. For each of these categories, it offers different cuts of pork tenderloin. It also offers the multi-layered one I had raved about in earlier posts but I didn't feel the need to have this version because the chunky version was moist enough so dryness wasn't a concern. I tried both the pricier cuts of green tea pork and Jeju pork and they were both amazing -- juicy, moist and crispier than any impostor versions out here. 



Speaking of impostors, I was so looking forward to having this ttukbokki (떡볶이), rice cakes in a spicy sauce with fish cakes and boiled egg with a side of fish cake broth. It was featured in a Korean food show but alas, it was highly disappointing. I could have this dish every day but I couldn't even finish it. This is the kind of dish that's not possible to make at home either because it has to have MSG to taste right or the sauce just doesn't come out the same. I tried a million times to make it at home to no avail but walk into any old hole in the wall in Korea and you'll get a half-way decent plate of this street food classic. Jopok Ttukbokki (조폭 떡볶이) in Koreatown does a passable but not great version if one gets desperate. They even have uncooked to-go packs if you want to make it at home.

Last but not least, my big family dinner party was a huge success with my favorite dish being this chicken and chorizo casserole that was perfect for a cold winter day. Ok, I know that chorizo is cheating. Major crowd-pleaser.

I also liked the green lentils rice with caramelized onions that was nutritious and sweet. Its mild flavor went well with the rest of the dishes that were quite spicy and salty. I also flew in some serious pork hatch red chile tamales I made as part of a tamale party here that I cooked and froze to take on my flight. Huge hit. After all, what's not to like about red chile tamales? Happy eating and cooking!

Anima Pizza & Pasta is Another Dud: Bad Pizza, Bad Pasta and Even Worse Service

Anima Pizza & Pasta was on my list of places to try and I was sorely disappointed. The food was below average and service was outright horrible. We had the Margherita pizza as an appetizer and I got the classic tagliatelle al ragu (they called it alla Bolognese). Not sure why everyone was raving about how great and authentic this spot was on message boards. The pizza was definitely below average. I will take 800 degrees or Olio, not to mention Pizzeria Mozza, any day.

The pasta was even worse. It had no flavor. It had so little flavor that I had to go home and pimp it up with salt and pepper. Even the ground meat tasted like it wasn't fresh or good quality meat. It was very disappointing. Margharita pizza and a basic meat sauce pasta are always my go-to when checking out a new Italian joint and I must say, Anima failed in a big way.

The biggest culprit of all, however, was the poor service. We were the very first customers there but we didn't get our bread until after our food arrived. Our server was slow and inattentive. The manager tried to make things better but then the owner came and reverse some of the good will the manager had managed to gain. I'll be honest. I think the lack of good service made me like this place even less. I definitely won't be returning. I could get excellent Italian at other joints any day.

Hwanghaedo Mandoo Jeongol: Excellent Meat Cooked Tableside in a Mild Broth, Pair with Scallion Kimchi, Steamed Cabbage or Ice-Cold White Kimchi Juice

I had always driven by Hwanghaedo Mandoo Jeongol on Western and didn't think much of it but I'm so glad I stopped by because it is a hidden gem. It specializes in a type of bulgoki cooked in a broth instead of grilled on a pan. Bulgoki is thinly sliced beef primarily marinated in soy sauce, garlic and sugar -- a classic Korean dish. It is cooked table side but as mentioned, this version was cooked in a dome-shaped grill with broth on the rims. Throw in lots of onions to add more sweetness and some squash and you have yourself a hearty and delicious meal on a cold, winter night.

Ok, LA isn't exactly winter weather but it does get chilly at night! More than anything, I was ecstatic I had finally found a good meal. I recently had a string of bad food experiences and was beginning to wonder how long the streak would last. I am usually not big on ordering bulgoki when I eat out because the quality of the meat is usually not great so it ends up being these balls of fat that taste salty and sweet drowning in a greasy marinade. The meat here was good quality -- it tasted fresh and no nasty balls of fat. The broth it cooked in was mild so there were a lot of ways to enjoy the meat, as is usually the case with Korean BBQ. The side dishes, or banchan, were solid too. Dongchimi, a cold, white kimchi enjoyed in the winter, came with floating, crushed frozen broth -- perfect to balance the meat. This type of kimchi hails from North Korea, which is where Hwanghae Province, the restaurant's namesake, is.

What about the works? This place has you covered. It has the standard red leaf lettuce and ssamjang, a mix of fermented soybean paste, red pepper paste, garlic, sesame oil and sesame seeds. Add a dollop of ssamjang into a lettuce leaf with a morsel of meat in it. It also had this excellent soy-sauce-based juice with pickled garlic, onions and jalapenos that added amazing flavor to the cooked meat since it was very lightly marinated.

It also had steamed cabbage with fresh jalapeno slices to add heat to your mini wraps. Again, you could make each bite different.

Speaking of different bites, the restaurant also offered Vietnamese rice papers that we could soak in warm water provided in a bowl with all these fresh vegetables and a hot sauce. I must say, I didn't care much for these fresh rolls and the hot sauce wasn't as good as the ssamjang or the kimchi on the table. Plus, the soaking thing was a bit cumbersome. But nice in concept and a different touch.

My favorite banchan was the scallion kimchi, or pa kimchi on the upper left of the above image. It was the perfect accompaniment to the bulgoki. There were also yeolmoo or radish stems kimchi and kongbiji, a stew made of soy beans seasoned with kimchi and pork. I was very focused on the meat so didn't have much of the stew but it is another one of those heart-warming comfort foods.

Speaking of comfort food, this place's version of egg custard was equally solid with a nice custard-y consistency and seasoned just right. 

Other banchan included this scallion pancake that wasn't anything special. There was a bit too much flour versus actual vegetables, in my opinion. Besides, I consider these a distraction when having meat. It's all about the meat!

They also had kkakdugi, or radish kimchi, which I didn't like, and bean sprouts, which were a mild addition to the strong flavors on the table.

For the finale, you could choose to add vermicelli like we did or add rice to make juk, or rice porridge in the broth with the remainder of the meat. I chose the noodles. It was odd that the vermicelli would be the actual meal much like nengmyun (cold buckwheat noodles after galbi ribs) since vermicelli or dangmyun in Korean isn't really a meal. I considered it a part of the bulgoki. Next time, I may try the porridge. The vermicelli mixed into the broth and meat added a very chewy texture and I liked it. I had a very satisfying meal, indeed.

Miari Noodle House: Comfort Food at its Best with Excellent Veggie Rice Bowl and Fermented Soy Bean Stew

I found a good, old-school spot in Koreatown that serves rustic classic like fermented soy bean paste stew and garlic chive rice bowl, also known as buchu bibimbab. It's called Miari Noodle House (Miari Son Kalguksoo in Korean) in the mini-mall right next to Koreatown Galleria, my go-to market to buy Korean ingredients. I wasn't expecting a whole lot (yes, I judged a book by its cover) but got encouraged by the constant inflow of Korean families spanning three or more generations waiting for a table. The rice dish was nourishing (felt healthy too) and very refreshing -- perfect for LA's current heat wave. A mix of white and black rice topped with raw, glistening garlic chives (looks like grass), steamed bean sprouts, pickled radish strips, romaine lettuce and dried seaweed strips -- all brought together with some red pepper paste (see the after image below), sesame oil and sesame seeds. I know. Hard to go wrong, right?

The fermented soy bean paste stew, duenjang jjigae, was another nice surprise. Visually, it didn't look as thick so I expected it to taste watered down. Even though the broth was on the clear side, which is unusual for good stew, the flavor was very strong. I attribute that to a solid foundation of the broth using dried baby anchovies and kelp. The stew came with potatoes, zucchini, enoki mushrooms and scallions. I really liked this one, even better than Jang-an Duenjang, where the restaurant is named after this dish but the quality has deteriorated a bit over the years.

The kimchi was good. My only beef with this place is that the rice had been pre-made far too long ago so it was cakey and not as fluffy as it should.

I'd love to return to try its namesake, kalgooksu, or knife noodles, when it gets colder.

EMC Seafood & Raw Bar in Koreatown: Solid Oysters, Scallop Carpaccio and Best of All, Luscious Uni Pasta

It's true. Oyster bars are the latest foodie trend du jour. But EMC Seafood & Raw Bar is in Ktown and I had heard so much about it that I wanted to go see for myself how good it really is. The oysters were great and at $1 a pop during happy hour, it was no wonder that it was a zoo with people waiting hours for a table or circling the bar to nab a seat. My fave dish overall: the uni pasta. The uni was fresh -- throw some light cream into the pasta with some dry seaweed and chives and you have a winner. My only complaint was that the pasta was a tad overcooked. But overall thumbs up.

I also loved the scallop carpaccio, which was fresh, sweet and drizzled with some extra virgin olive oil, yuzu kosho, a paste made from chili peppers, a citrus used in Korean and Japanese cooking called yuzu and salt, smoked salt and some greens on the side. It was so refreshing on a hot summer day. Perfect with your happy hour drink!

The oyster of the day was Misty Point from the state of Washington. They were fresh and delicious -- some subtle sweetness in them. They came with a chili sauce topped with lemon wedges, freshly grated horseradish or a vinegary sauce with jalapenos floating. I'm a bit of a purist when it comes to oysters so I'm happy with the lemon but also enjoyed the horseradish sauce for some kick. These were addictive. I think our party of four collectively had over a dozen. 

I wasn't as impressed with the soft-shell crab sliders. Fantastic in concept, which is why we ordered it. I'm a soft-shell crab fiend if there ever was one. But these just didn't deliver. They were over-breaded and so greasy that I couldn't even taste the sweet flesh of the crab. They tried to balance out the fried with some slaw but it just fell flat. It made it even more bland. The best soft-shell crab I've had was very lightly breaded and lightly fried.  

The brussel sprouts were ok but nothing to write home about. They were on the salty side.

A word of caution: come early, as in 4pm when HH begins to avoid crowds. The place is loud, crowded and warm. It has good food and fresh seafood but it isn't a place you could just stop by at peak hours and get a table, even a seat at the bar. 

Parking is free and is in the same building. 

Go Old School at Hite Kwangjang with Spicy Squid Anju and Beer, Skip Black Bean Noodles at Mandarin House

Sometimes my friends and I just want to go somewhere super old-school to have a good ol' pitcher of beer with some greasy and spicy anju, basically Korean bar food. So what better place than the trusty Hite Kwangjang to have some classic fried chicken, spicy squid with noodles to be washed down with some ice cold Hite beer?

You may recall my post on the equally old-school OB Bear where I reported not being blown away by the famed fried chicken there. The chicken didn't impress here either. But first, let's talk about what was good. The spicy squid stir fried with onions, scallions and green cabbage was a good accompaniment to the beer. The spice level was just right. In typical anju fashion, the squid was on the overcooked rubbery side but then again, it wouldn't be authentic if it weren't. The noodles helped to temper the heat of the squid, playing the role of white rice.

The purported pancake that we got on the house, aka "service" was anemic to say the least. I wasn't even sure what kind of pancake it was as all I saw were random tiny specks of zucchini in a sea of flour batter. Meh.

Behold the spicy squid smothered with the pearly white noodles. Great with beer. 

The fried chicken was highly disappointing. The skin was crispy but the meat was dry and didn't have much flavor. The side salad of shredded cabbage topped with a dollop of thousand island dressing did give me a flash of nostalgia for the old hofs lining the streets of Shinchon in Seoul but overall thumbs down.

The fried potato wedges we got was scorching hot but in the wrong way. They weren't crispy in the least. They were piping hot on the inside, as if they had just come out of a boiling pot. But they were too thick so just didn't work. I would not get the chicken next time. Just things like the squid and that ice-cold pitcher of Hite would suffice.

You may remember my rant about a lack of decent jjajangmyun, that perfect bowl of chewy Korean Chinese noodle concoctionpaired with a salty and slightly sweet black bean sauce, in LA. Well, the rant continues as famed Mandarin House (진흥각) in Koreatown Plaza disappoints in a big way. The problem with most Korean Chinese joints is that the noodles are overcooked and they pour the caramel in the sauce so it ends up tasting like candy, which is not a good thing. It should be a perfect balance between salty with a hint of sweet. How I miss those bowls of jjajangmyun delivered in a "steel suitcase," aka 철가방, usually by a prepubescent dude with dyed blond locks and an earring.

The sweet and sour pork, or tangsooyuk, was too fatty and the sauce was too sweet once again. It wasn't bad but hardly worth returning for. Where should I go for half-way decent jjajangmyun?

Chorizo Clams at Korean Colombian Escala and Bad Sandwiches at Whiz

Escala and Whiz represent the new types of joints setting up shop in Koreatown -- the cool, borderline hipster spots that serve decidedly hybrid LA food. The cocktails like El Jefe were promising. Made with Jalapeno infused Aguardiente (a strong, Colombian spirit), grilled pineapple juice, panella (unrefined cane sugar) and lime, it was refreshing with just the right subtle kick.

Escala serves Colombian food (owned by a Korean Colombian who came to America) and its ceviche of tilapia and shrimp with roasted corn is not bad though nothing to write home about.

The steamed clams with chorizo in a tomato sauce that came with nicely toasted bread slices was great bar food -- salty and hearty. I asked for more bread -- couldn't resist that sauce.

Now for the bad. The beef empanadas with aji verde (green chili) sauce was terribly disappointing. First of all, the empanadas were fried and very greasy. Then the beef filling was completely devoid of any flavor. The aji sauce didn't help much and I stopped eating it.

The place has a great vibe and half outdoors in the historic Chapman Plaza so it's worth a visit for at least a drink but some of the food needs to pack more flavor. Get the clams and a cocktail.

Now for the downright ugly. Whiz down the street on 6th was equally promising. I generally liked the food at gastropub Beer Belly, owned by the same couple. However, the only thing that was remotely decent were the Sriracha fries -- crinkled fries smothered in some Sriracha mayo concoction. Then again, what's not to like about fries and Sriracha? Still, I expected more from these owners (not diner fries!).

They were nice enough to remake a burger for me as the first one was overcooked. Unfortunately, the flavors were all wrong. I liked the brioche bun enough but the combination of the patty with the fried shallots, Sriracha dressing and cheddar cheese for some reason didn't gel at all. I wanted to like it, honestly.

Remember my less than stellar Philly Cheese Steak experience a few months ago at the birthplace of the Philly Cheese Steak here? Well, this rubbed salt on the wound and made me want a good one even more. Flavorless, poor quality meat, bland cheese and weak bread. The pickled jalapenos were the only flavors on that sad sandwich.

Don't even get me started on the chicken sandwich. Granted I got it to-go so it didn't retain all the piping hot crispiness had it been straight out of the fryer. I get that. Still, that sandwich had zero flavor and the little flavors they did have didn't combine well at all. I don't think I'll be returning but it seems very popular. I do like the concept of outdoor dining and neighborhood sandwich shop but the flavors simply didn't deliver.