Miami & Santa Fe Roundups: The Best Slow-cooked Pork and Plantains Ever; Green Chile and Eggs for Brunch

I'm highlighting some of the best eats I've had during some recent travels to Miami, Santa Fe, San Francisco and New York.

First up, hands-down the best lechon (classic Cuban dish of pig roasted for like 40 hours) and rice and beans I've ever had -- at Enriqueta's Sandwich Shop in the artsy Wynwood district of Miami. It was the best of both worlds -- tender and moist on the inside with cracklin' crispy skin (note the glistening skin). The pork was seasoned perfectly with hints of garlic and just the right amount of salt. The slightly tangy red onions it came with helped to cut through what could have felt like a very heavy meal (ok, it was still heavy but you get the idea). I never thought I could get excited about a humble side of rice and beans but alas, this set of rice and beans overrode all the millions of rice and beans I've had to this day -- perfectly cooked beans and rice with such deep flavor (they must have used broth to cook that rice). And the fried plantains. I've virtually never met a fried plantain I didn't like, so it made the meal even better. Needless to say, my lunch mate and I seriously overate to the point of feeling sick but I still relish the meal and find it was completely worth it. Here's a traveler's tip: take a stroll afterwards to check out the beautiful murals around Wynwood to walk off the calories.
 

We couldn't leave Miami without having another Cuban classic -- the Cubano sandwich. We searched high and low and found a good one at Puerto Sagua (It's temporarily closed until Oct. 30 so I'm glad we got a taste of it before then!) just before leaving. While the sandwich was good -- behold that cheese that's about to ooze down that layer of ham and pork goodness in the background -- the real star for me was the plantain omelet we had with it. I already mentioned my unequivocal love for plantains and once you throw in an egg -- seriously, it was sweet, it was savory, it was fluffy, it was...the ultimate comfort food.  

I wasn't sure what to expect for Santa Fe but I loved the sheer beauty of the sprawling landscape, the awesome art and of course, the food. Big thanks to Panchito for guiding me to some stellar spots including Cafe Pasqual's. This quaint corner joint had one of the best carne asadas I've had -- spice rubbed skirt steak with roasted tomato and jalapeno salsa with a side of a grilled poblano pepper, red bell pepper and red onion; and black beans sprinkled with queso fresco. The meat was perfectly cooked with a slight char on the outside. You could vary every bite, Korean ssam-style -- the dish came with two corn tortillas. I washed it all down with some agave salt-rimmed margarita although I found it far too sweet for my taste. 

I should say at this point that I came to a realization when I was in Santa Fe that I wasn't a big fan of its chile sauces. I know. Outrageous. I noticed that whenever I ordered any kind of Mexican food at a restaurant, the server always asked, "red or green chile?" I tried both and I must say, I'm always in a conundrum because while I like spicy, I never liked the taste of the red chile sauce. But when I go with green, I'm dissatisfied because it's too bland for me. Anyway, the point is, I wasn't able to greatly enjoy the quintessential Southwestern dish of enchiladas smothered in either a red or green chile sauce for this reason. It's me, not you. 

I liked Cafe Pasqual's because it had an interesting menu items besides the usual suspects of Southwestern Mexican offered by most establishments. We had the fried green tomatoes, which were excellent. 

The cochinita pibil, a Yucatan dish of slow-cooked pork (I detect a pattern) wrapped in banana leaf paired with pickled red onions, tortillas and plantain fried tostones-style was solid as well. I didn't care for this harder version of plantains but the meat was extremely tender and I was just sorry I couldn't finish it. Had I been able to bring it home, I would have "pimped" the heck out of that meat with kimchi and perilla leaves over rice, with a crusty baguette and a fried egg or whatever other variations I could muster.

This image isn't the most photogenic but it was one brunch dish where the green chile actually worked for me -- smothered over layers of tortillas and beans sprinkled with cheese and topped with two over-easy eggs and a side of hash browns at Cecilia's Cafe in Albuquerque. Since I wouldn't necessarily have an extremely spicy dish from early in the morning, this was a perfect way to start a lazy Sunday. Stay tuned for my next entry of travel eats with njeats!

  

Excellent Tasty Garden in Monterrey Park: Indulge in Extra Decadent Walnut Shrimp and Garlicky Green Bean

I love it when I have a meeting somewhere and get out early enough to make a pit stop at a restaurant during off-hours. Tasty Garden is one of those places. Behold the giant shrimp fried to perfection and smothered in mayo and sprinkled with sesame seeds and paired with the crunchiest candied walnuts ever. It was the most raved about dish on message boards and it certainly didn't disappoint. I still dream about this.

The walnut shrimp was by far the best thing I had but the string beans stir fried in garlic and red chilies were done just the right way -- cooked until firm but tender with an explosion of garlic flavor and the right amount of heat.

The Singaporean noodles came with pork, shrimp, onions, bean sprouts, bell peppers and egg, all coming together with some curry powder. I know that's how they're made but I found the noodles a bit dry. I had to add some hot chili oil to moisten it. Still, pretty solid.

It was late afternoon and most of the other customers were having brick toast with tea. The portions of the dishes are huge and there will be plenty of leftovers.

Brunch at Cooks County: Go Get the Beef Hash with an Egg and the Top Notch Burger, Fluffiest Pancake a Bonus

I finally tried the much-talked about brunch at Cooks County in my hood and now understand what the hype is about. I know they say fancy restaurants use brunch as a way to get rid of leftovers from the week at a premium but whether there's truth in that or not, our party hardly cared. It certainly was a carb overload but it was good, very good. I think we indulged even more because it felt like we deserved it after a long week at work. I know. We always find ways of rationalizing our irrational behavior. But I digress. The beef hash with perfectly diced potatoes and a gorgeous sunny side up was my favorite. It doesn't get more classic brunch comfort food than this. Then again, crack an egg on anything and I'm pretty much sold. The crusty bread was perfectly toasted and charred on the edges.

The burger tied with the beef hash as my favorite dish. To deconstruct the burger, the patty was perfectly cooked medium rare and it was a seriously good patty, at that. The bun was fresh but did not hold up to the patty and the works and crumbled a bit but was still above average. The works included grilled red onions, tomato, butter lettuce, chocolate stout cheddar and aioli. I usually don't like the works to be too fussy but these worked very well together despite sounding quite fussy.

The fries were not the best I've had but good enough. I think by the time the burger came out, we were already carb-overloaded so it was hard to eat much. The burger tasted great later too.

The crab quiche was chock full of sweet crab meat and the side salad of greens, radishes and avocados was just what an egg-y quiche needed. Great execution.

I'm not huge on pancakes -- I'm more of a French toast person -- but these baked babies were so ethereal and fluffy that I couldn't resist having more than a bite. They were a bit thicker than regular pancakes but didn't feel heavy at all. It came with blueberry compote and bourbon-barrel maple syrup although truth be told, I couldn't really taste or smell any bourbon aroma in the syrup. But I do love me some syrup, which I happily spread on the pancake with the not-too-sweet compote.

The cheddar buttermilk biscuit was ok but not the best biscuit I've ever had. It was definitely decent -- hard to go wrong with buttah spread on a biscuit -- but I probably wouldn't order it again. 

The jelly donuts with strawberry rhubarb jam inside were good but again, by the time we got dessert, we could barely even look at more carbs. The donuts had a bit too much sugar so had to dust it off but the sweetness of the jam was just right. They were smallish, which made them easier to consume at that stage of the overload process. 

The mimosas were good and you could get a hibiscus prosecco if you're feeling adventurous. I found it too bitter so had the classic mimosa instead.

I'd like to return for Fried Chicken Mondays.

Pono Burger in Santa Monica: Sweet Potato Chips and Pickled Ginger in Your Burger, What? It Works.

After hearing raves about Pono Burger, this burger fiend couldn't resist trekking over there to see for myself. It was billed as a Hawaiian or Asian take on burgers. The re-purposed barn space and eclectic rustic farm decor were very cool if it weren't for the fact that the chairs were somewhat uncomfortable and it was cold. The burger was excellent, which is saying a lot because I had a specialty burger called Sassy Wahine.

The best thing about it was the patty, which was moist and flavorful and cooked perfectly medium rare. I so appreciate that since I've had to take back numerous overcooked burgers the past few times I ordered them elsewhere. The bun was fresh, soft and warm, just the way it should be. The works were interesting and included Okinawan sweet potato chips, pea shoots, pickled ginger (you know, the delightfully vinegar-y thinly sliced kind you get with your sushi), avocado and wasabi mayo, all drizzled with a sesame ponzu dressing.

Whatever happened to the basic cheeseburger, you ask? I'm with you. I normally don't like complicated burgers with mile-long descriptions. However, for all its descriptors, this burger worked. The crunch from the chips gave it another interesting dimension and the ginger didn't overpower despite some initial concerns. Then we had the creamy avocado and the freshness from the pea shoots. I thought there could have been fewer pea shoots but I won't hold it against this otherwise stellar burger.

I could barely taste the wasabi mayo or sesame ponzu sauce but I didn't necessarily miss them. Better than having them overpower other parts of the burger. There were some complaints online about small portions but I thought it was just right. Now, the fries were a tad disappointing. We got both the sweet potato and regular potatoes that came out with garlic aioli dipping sauces. I just wanted the fries to match the caliber of the burger. They could have been crispier and hotter.

We treated ourselves with some seriously decadent shakes for semi-dessert, including the salted caramel (is there a restaurant that doesn't have this trendy item on the menu these days? I'm not complaining) sprinkled with bacon bits (another trend that's old but extremely tolerable -- oh, and they're from Niman Ranch) and strawberry.

They were both very good but not sure I could have finished one by myself. The salted caramel got too sweet for its own good after a few scoops even after being tempered by the salty bacon bits. The strawberry was good but again, too filling for one person.

Free parking is a good service. I would definitely return to try the other burgers or create my own and check out their wine and beer selection. This is a winner.

Lotus of Siam in LV: Ode to Excellent Thai Food Way Off the Strip, I'll Riesling Toast to That

I know Lotus of Siam in Vegas gets a lot of hype and you know how I feel about hype. While some were solid, I was disappointed at other dishes this time around. It was the third or fourth time I'd been to this shrine of Thai food in a nondescript strip mall off the Strip. It had significantly expanded its digs to more than double its original size and I was worried the food would be diluted along with this growth.

Here's the good: the fried sea bass stir fried with "drunken" rice noodles. The crunchiness of the sea bass pieces was a great complement to the satisfying carb load of the rice noodles that had a subtle kick to them.

We also loved the soft shelled crab salad that came with toasted cashews, green papaya and also had a nice citrusy kick. It was garnished with some fresh cilantro sprigs and chilies that are best kept away from unless you like fire in your mouth. The crab was conveniently cut up into small pieces and once again, it was a triumph of crunch paired with other crunch like raw vegetables dressed in a light lemony and spicy sauce.

My next favorite thing was the crab fried rice. It was light on the crab but still fluffy and comforting as all fried rice dishes should be. It also came with tomato, onions and egg.

The jack fruit curry with ground pork was far too salty, even for a sodium fiend like me. As they say in Korea, it was a "rice thief," meaning you crave a ton of rice because it's so salty. And it goes well together too. I could only have so much though.

The papaya salad starter was refreshing and good for the summer. It also had toasted peanuts and forgettable tomato slices.

The one big disappointment was the crispy rice salad, or Nam Kao Tod that also had pork sausage cubs, green onions and a healthy dose of spice. It was dry and most definitely nothing to write home about. I would not get this dish again.

The desserts were solid but nothing too special. The mango with sticky rice doused with coconut milk and toasted rice was just ok. The mango wasn't as ripe and sweet as it should be. I liked a version formerly served at Sophy's in Long Beach, a Cambodian joint that sadly no longer serves this superb dessert.

The fried banana in wonton wrappers was good, although at the risk of sounding obnoxious, I like the ones I make with dulce de leche inside better. Adding dulce de leche to anything just makes it so much better.

While decent value for LV, some dishes weren't cheap for a Thai restaurant (The sea bass noodles dish was $30, for instance) but I will return for more when I go to LV next. Great Riesling wine list. Loved the one we got, which was a Leitz Dragonstone from Germany.

Estiatorio Milos in Vegas: Greek at its Best, Reminiscent of Santorini

Estiatorio Milos in the Cosmopolitan in Vegas took me back to this amazing Greek meal we had in Santorini a few years ago. We had the prix fixe lunch that included a starter, main and dessert. Big thumbs up.

The grilled octopus appetizer paired with capers and very thinly sliced red onions and fennel was very refreshing -- perfect for super scorching weather this time of the year in Vegas. The octopus was cooked to a perfect tenderness and the citrusy drizzle on top was just tangy enough. I also loved the whole grilled bass that came mostly deboned and topped with some lemon and capers and steamed broccoli on the side. The bass was incredibly fresh and again, it reminded me of the excellent quality seafood we had in Greece. So simple and yet delicious because the ingredients were so fresh they did most of the work.

The grilled scallop appetizer that came with perfect, and I mean perfect, grillmarks was divine. I didn't care for the couscous side that I found too doughy smelling but the bell pepper and onions on the skewer went well with the meaty scallop that was cooked just right.

The Meze plate was also good. It included pita wedges with three dips and the Greek cheese manouri, which I like much better than feta. The dips were tzatziki that was rich and yogurty; tamara that is short for taramasalata and has fish roe; and htipiti, a roasted red pepper and feta mix. Each of the dips had strong, explosion of different flavors.

We couldn't resist the lobster fettuccine in a light, tomato cream sauce and it was rich and decadent, just like it sounded. This is LV, after all. I liked that it was generous with the lobster chunks as they should be, since it had a supplemental charge. I actually must rant at this point about how much I dislike "supplemental charges" in fixed menus for certain items. I get that lobster is pricey but still, they usually are the best sounding dishes, which defeats the purpose of the fixed menu in the first place. Still, it was good but not one of the best dishes we had here.

Dessert was rather boring. I had the fruit (above) and others had the Greek yogurt topped with a raspberry, a few blueberries and a hint of a compote. Yawn.

I'd recommend this spot to anyone going to Vegas. It's a good lunch deal if you don't go for the supplemental charge items and very good food.

Little Bear in Little Tokyo: Amazing Huevos Benedictos with Spanish Chorizo + Short Rib Eggs Benedict

Who woulda thunk that a Belgian beer spot could offer such a fabulous brunch? Little Bear in Little Tokyo's up and coming artsy district is that kind of place. By day, it offers standouts like Huevos Benedictos and by night, it's a gastropub with an impressive beer list from all over the world. And there will be hipsters. I had a hard time deciding between this creative take on eggs benedict, the breakfast burger and the waffle burger. Yes, it exists. In the end, the burger fiend in me was defeated by the chorizo lover -- and boy, am I glad it did.

Here's another shot of the dish so you can dissect it any way you desire. It's a beauty, isn't it? The first surprise was that the chorizo was a Spanish chorizo. I was expecting the Mexican-out-of-the-case-loose-spicy-ground-pork kind. I wished the eggs had been more underdone so there'd be more oozing but it hardly mattered when I sliced into the egg, chorizo and English muffin and slathered the trio with the Hollandaise sauce and salsa it came topped with. Ok, the salsa was pretty bland but that didn't matter too much either. Combine the salty, meaty chorizo with a soft poached egg and neutral bread and I'm in brunch heaven. The slice of avocado added a nice touch, although I feel like they should try a Mexican chorizo version just to see how it'd taste. Maybe I should try it at home.

The mimosa we started with seemed like some of the bubbly had gone from the champagne but my brunch companion said it tasted fine. It was ok. But her short rib eggs benedict (must be a chef favorite -- there were a total of four variations. I'm not complaining.) was fantastic. The rib meat was tender and salty and paired perfectly with the soft, poached egg and Hollandaise sauce. What a brilliant idea. Why don't more spots think up of and offer this dish? I also liked that the Hollandaise sauce wasn't so dense and creamy so it tasted lighter although I'm sure butter was still pretty well represented.

The mushroom scramble that had three different kinds of mushrooms including shitake, crimini and oyster mushrooms with bacon, red onion and pepper jack cheese was good but nothing special. I could easily make this at home.

Now for the bad. The accompanying potatoes cut into little cubes were definitely sub-par. They were far too greasy and tasted like they had been fried too many times so they wreaked of oil. It's hard not to crave a good potato side when you're having something like the Huevos Benedictos but alas, I couldn't eat them after a few bites.

I plan on returning for happy hour to try that extensive beer list but more importantly, must return to try the breakfast burger, that comes with a fried egg and potato hash patty. Gotta love that concept. Hope they deliver on the potato next time.

ATX Kitchen12000: The Place to Be During a Heat Wave -- Ice Cold Sangria and Excellent Savoy Spinach Burrata Salad

I'd been to the former space for ATX Kitchen12000 but this newly renovated space is amazing -- it's open, airy and has decent food and live music. ATX stands for Atwater Crossing and not sure about the 12000. I liked the Sangria Rojo that was just what the doctor ordered for this heat wave. The space had a very community feel, complete with euphoric applause and cries from patrons whenever a train passed right by the restaurant.

My favorite dish was the Savoy Spinach salad, that included the sweetest strawberries, fennel strips, perfectly candied walnuts, the creamiest burrata in a balsamic dressing. I don't usually comment on the flavor of spinach but that spinach was something else, as were the berries and the combination with the creamy cheese. It was definitely a winning combination, especially for the Spring/Summer.

Now for the not-so-good. The hamachi sashimi were sliced way too thick (more like bricks) and without much flavor. Thing is, you're not going to do much to enhance the natural flavor of the fish, then the fish better be darn good quality sashimi, which this was not. It was average quality but not great. I could barely taste the yuzu koshu (paste made from chili peppers, yuzu peel and salt, which is then allowed to ferment) nor did the guacamole it sat on do much for the dish. The pickled radishes added some welcome tanginess but overall bland and too thick. Wouldn't get it again.

The Peach Brulee Caprese sounded so promising but alas, it wasn't a winner. The greens would have been better as arugula (rather than spinach) and the peaches weren't sweet or ripe at all. The cherry tomatoes were ok and the cane de cabra, which tasted like a type of stronger goat cheese, didn't complement the other elements all that well. There was magical explosion of flavors or textures as with the Savoy Spinach salad. 

The biggest dud was the flatbread special, which came with olives (cheap canned, chopped up olives you'd get at Papa John's -- I think they could do better), artichokes, goat cheese and spinach (they use a lot of spinach). The crust wasn't bad but the pie was far too dry and bland. I had to pimp it for breakfast the next day with an oozing fried egg although it still wasn't fully salvaged.

Service was good and the owner/manager dropped by to ask how the food was and in typical njeats fashion, I didn't hold back. She seemed a bit taken aback but then took the feedback graciously. It helped them to give honest feedback, right? Anyway, will definitely return as it seems like the perfect place for a hot, summer evening after a long week's work. Ahhhhhhhhh.